There we were, on Clapham High Street and hungry. It was raining, too, so we didn't spend too much time researching the available options. Eco was pretty much full, which seemed like a near-miracle on the first Wednesday in January. That was the extent of our research, so after a quick drink in the deli next door while they found space for us, we tumbled in.
Eco serves sourdough pizza, which is a perfect example of food fashion. Ten years ago it barely existed in this country, and now they are everywhere, including almost opposite at Breads Etcetera, and a mile or two down the road at Franco Manca in Brixton Market.
So is sourdough pizza better? It's certainly not worse. I tend to think a well-made yeasted pizza base can be just as good, but if nothing else, the fact that a place is using sourdough at least indicates a certain level of care and attention.
Those at Eco are excellent - nice and thin, a hint of chewiness. But it was the toppings that had me more excited. I very nearly ordered the engagingly-named Amore, with roasted peppers, green beans, artichokes, red onions and aubergine. The goats' cheese and coriander pizza also sounded interesting, if a bit mad. I had the porcini and truffle oil, which also featured fontina, white wine and mozzarella. I didn't notice that much truffle oil, to be honest, but the fresh porcini packed enough of a fungal punch that I forgave them.
The other half had the marinara, with octopus, king prawns, squid, cuttlefish and mussels. There was so much going on that he thought the individual seafood flavours got a bit lost. I tend to the view that he should have thought of that before ordering it.
Those craving simpler pizzas are also kept happy with options like margherita, ham or mushroom. The ham is Gloucester Old Spot from a named farm, which is a nice touch. Prices start low, with a margherita at £6.25 or a cheese-free pizza just £4.75. We had some of the most expensive options, at £9.25 and £10.50.
We drank a reasonable bottle of Nero d'Avola, which is the entry point of the wine list at £13.25.
In my excitement to tell you about the pizzas I have skipped over the starters. They do various classic antipasti such as cured meats, tomato and mozzarella salad, and Parma ham with figs. I was drawn to their "dips and bites" which are nibbles served on a platter for sharing, in a combination of your choice. We enjoyed aubergine baked in tomato sauce with pecorino, and a tomato bruschetta on sourdough bread. The tomatoes were a bit pale and tasteless, but with the help of some garlic, olive oil, basil and decent bread, the whole thing was still highly edible.
Oh, and they do lots of pasta, too. And they take Tastecards. What more can you ask for?
Eco
162 Clapham High Street
London
SW4 7UG
020 7978 1108
www.ecorestaurants.com
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