Cabbage and spice and all things nice

Cauliflower and cabbage are perhaps not the most glamorous of vegetables. Next to the shiny aubergines, colourful peppers, glossy courgettes - all those vegetables that help us to think of sunshine and chic Mediterranean food - they can appear dowdy, old-fashioned even. Cauliflower sales fell 35% between 2000 and 2010, and while I haven't seen more recent figures, I somehow doubt there's been a huge resurgence.

But I have a soft spot for the humble and the home-grown, and if you want British veg at this time of year, then there isn't much in the way of glamour to be had. So let's add excitement and exoticism with spices.

The first time I ate cabbage thoran - a side dish from Kerala in south India - was in a Keralan restaurant in Cambridge. Regional Indian restaurants were rarer outside London at that time than they are now, and I was blown away by flavours that were new to me - and in particular, the way that this dish transformed cabbage into something utterly delicious.

The cauliflower and split pea curry that I ate with it is not Keralan, so I can't claim any authenticity to eating these two dishes together. But I think they work rather well, with contrasting colours and textures, the substantial lentils next to the lighter cabbage dish. These quantities will easily serve four, but if you have leftovers, the cauliflower curry freezes well. 

Split peas have a little more texture (unless you overcook them) but take longer to cook than lentils - feel free to use whichever you have to hand.

Spiced split peas with cauliflower

Ingredients

1 tsp vegetable oil
2 cloves of garlic, peeled and chopped
About 2.5cm/1in length of fresh ginger, very finely chopped
1 teaspoon hot chilli, or to taste
1 onion, chopped
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
200g yellow split peas or red lentils
1 small cauliflower
1 small bunch coriander

Method

If you're using split peas, soaking them for a few hours or overnight can reduce the cooking time, but is not essential.

Grind the cumin and coriander as finely as you can in a pestle and mortar.

Heat the oil in a large pan and add the garlic and ginger, followed a minute later by the cumin and coriander, and then the other spices. Fry for a minute more and then add the lentils or split peas. Cover with water and simmer for 20 minutes for split peas, 40 minutes for lentils, during which time you can slice the cauliflower into small florets (don't discard the stalk, just cut into small pieces). The lentils or split peas should by now be mostly cooked. Add the cauliflower and a little more water if needed. Cover and cook until the cauliflower is tender and the lentils or split peas are soft.

Stir in half the chopped coriander, taste and adjust the seasoning as needed. Serve with the cabbage thoran and some rice or Indian bread if you wish.

Cabbage thoran

Ingredients

2 tsp vegetable oil
1 onion, finely sliced
1 tsp black mustard seeds
1 tsp cumin seeds, crushed in a pestle and mortar
1/2 teaspoon turmeric powder
Half a green cabbage or small head of spring greens, finely sliced
10 fresh curry leaves
6 tablespoons fresh grated coconut or 4 tablespoons dessicated coconut, soaked in warm water and drained

Method

Heat the oil in a large frying pan and add the onion, mustard seeds and cumin seeds. Fry for a couple of minutes - the mustard seeds may start to pop.

Add the turmeric, curry leaves and cabbage or greens. Cover the pan and cook on a moderate heat, stirring from time to time, until the cabbage is tender. Stir in the coconut and serve immediately.