How to prepare fresh chestnuts, and a chestnut risotto recipe

Wild chestnuts can be one of the most frustrating wild crops to forage, yet are one of the most rewarding. The most challenging part is finding a tree with decent-sized nuts. Some years in the UK they just never seem to get big enough to be worth eating. This year I happened across lots of trees which only yielded tiny nuts, including in several Central London parks. But then a walk out in Kent, when chestnuts were the last thing on my mind, put lots of plump nuts in my path.

The challenges continue with the prickles (wear gloves, or restrict yourself to the ones that have fallen out of the spiny cases). And finally, peeling them is a rather time-consuming process which leaves me with painful bits of chestnut case under my fingernail.

But there are the rewards too. When you finally do find a decent tree, there's usually a bountiful crop spread on the ground. Often once you find one good tree there's another one nearby. And when you see the price of fresh chestnuts in the shops, you can feel smug about getting them for free.

If you're going to forage your own chestnuts, first make sure that it's chestnuts you're picking, not the inedible horse chestnuts. Horse chestnuts, or 'conkers', are shinier, at least when fresh, and have fewer spines on their casing, whereas edible (sweet) chestnuts are completely covered in smaller, impenetrable spines.

You can roast, boil or even microwave your chestnuts. For chestnuts to eat as a snack, roast them and sprinkle with a little salt. Put a slit in each one with a sharp knife, then roast in a medium oven for about 15-20 minutes. If you leave one without a slit, when you hear it explode you'll know your chestnuts are cooked - although you'll also need to clean your oven.

For chestnuts to use in cooking, I think boiling is the best method. Put them in a medium pan, cover with boiling water, and simmer for about 10 minutes. Drain and peel, with the help of a small sharp knife.

Microwaving is fastest, taking just a couple of minutes, though this does depend on the quantity of chestnuts. It's essential to put a slit in them though, and even if you do this I find that one or two may still explode in the microwave.

Whatever cooking method you choose, warm chestnuts are far easier to peel than cold ones.

Chestnut and leek risotto

Serves 2-3

Ingredients

500g leeks, trimmed (about 2 medium)
2 tsp vegetable oil
1 onion, finely chopped
250g chestnuts, cooked and peeled (either from a packet, or follow the instructions above)
200g risotto rice (pudding rice gives a very similar effect and is often cheaper)
1 pint vegetable stock, homemade if possible
1 tbsp fresh rosemary or sage leaves, chopped, or a mixture of both
50g grated Parmesan, plus extra to serve

Method

Wash the leeks well and cut into slices. Some people like to trim all the green parts off the leek - personally I like the touch of colour, they taste just as nice and if properly cooked they shouldn't be tough.

Put 1tsp of the oil in a large frying pan, preferably one that has a lid. Add the leeks and cook over a medium heat, covered if possible but stirring from time to time, until the leeks are soft.

Meanwhile, put the other tsp of oil in a large saucepan with the chopped onion. Cook for five minutes, then add the rice and a ladleful of hot stock. Stir until the stock is absorbed, and keep stirring and adding stock until the rice is nearly cooked, with just a bit of bite.

Add the cooked leeks, Parmesan, half the chestnuts and half the fresh herbs, and plenty of black pepper. Stir well, and cook for one minute longer while you chop half of the remaining chestnuts. Taste the risotto and season if you think it needs it.

Serve with the remaining chopped and whole chestnuts and the fresh herbs. Pass round Parmesan at the table.

This risotto is also delicious with crumbled blue cheese (such as Stilton or Gorgonzola, or you could try a farmhouse blue cheese like Lanark Blue or Yorkshire blue) instead of the Parmesan.