So off I went to Babur, somewhat out of my usual territory in Brockley Rise (near Honor Oak Park rail). You can't miss it - there is a giant orange tiger on the roof.
A glance at the list of starters confirms this is not your average Indian restaurant. How about seared mackerel, with green apple and coriander salsa, or clove-smoked ostrich, or maybe tamarind-glazed quail breast? Prices range from £6.95 to £7.95, and mains cost from £12.95 to £16.95 (rice and breads are extra).
The creator of the menu has an appealing way with words - I liked the idea of the "vegetable beggar's purse" as well as the "rise dosa fool's cap" served with the Chettivar masala.
My friend had goat patties with tamarind and raisin chutney, while my cheese-loving side could not resist the chargrilled paneer sandwiched with mint chutney. Both were small, elegant portions beautifully served - mine came with a palette of three extra chutneys, vibrant in flavour as well as colour.
There is quite an impressive wine list, including suggestions to match each of the main courses - something I think more restaurants should do.
My friend took up the suggestion of a glass of New Zealand Pinot Gris to go with her chicken lababdar, a Mughlai dish with tomato and fenugreek. I am generally more of a fan of beer with curry, and I spotted one of my favourites, Clouded Yellow from Cornwall's St Austell brewery. (It's named after the butterfly, but as the name suggests, it can also be served cloudy, like a wheat beer, if you swirl in the sediment rather than letting it settle)
There were too many interesting main courses to list (the clove-smoked Laverstoke Park buffalo caught my eye) but I opted for fig-stuffed spiced potato dumplings with cashew and saffron sauce. This actually seemed more like fig dumplings served with potato patties, but it was a deft balance of sweet and spicy, in a rather wonderful sauce, luxurious with cream and saffron.
A side dish of garlicky spinach and mushroom was nice, though the spinach was lacking in texture, and I wondered if we should have tried the fresh green beans with sweet coconut and spices, or baby aubergine with peanut sauce, instead.
The same wordsmith had seemingly been involved with the menu of enticing cocktails - my favourite names were Darjeeling Mist (gin, ice tea, mint, lime and cassia bark) and Himalayan Spring (whisky, ginger, lime and sherry), although I was less sure about the Currytini (gin, Cinzano, lime cordial, curry leaves and green chilli).
The dessert list is equally different from your average Indian restaurant. Chocolate fondant is one of my all-time favourites, so I was happy to put up with the 15-20 minute wait we were warned of. My friend had the warm oatmeal and whisky pudding made with buffalo milk. Described as "our take on cranachan", I had expected something light, creamy and boozy like the classic Scottish dessert, but it was much denser - more of a crumble topping than a cranachan.
We took up the suggested pairing of dessert wines, a dark Monastrell with the fondant and a orange muscat with the oatmeal pudding. Desserts are £4.75-5.25, or add another £3-ish for a small glass of dessert wine. It made for a sophisticated end to an excellent meal.
All this does come at a price. With a shared (large) portion of rice at £3.25 and a mini-bread basket at £4.25, the bill was £89 before service. You could get a lot of chicken tikka masala for that in your local curry house. Of course, Babur is miles away from that - original, thoughtful and beautifully presented food, and it's only fair to pay for that. If it was in central London I suspect it would be much-talked of in the manner of places like Cinnamon Club and Rasoi Vineet Bhatia. As it's in Brockley, it has mostly just been quietly getting on with serving good food for the last 27 years. Long may it continue.
Babur
119 Brockley Rise, London, SE23 1JP.
Telephone: 020 8291 2400
www.babur.info
Email mail@babur.info
Open from noon until 2:30 (except Sunday: noon-4pm) and every evening from 6pm until 11:30pm.
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